Motorized Star Wars AT-AT - Spyder3D World
This is a walking model of an AT-AT from the Star Wars films. It is powered by a 9 V battery, a 90 rpm motor, and a switch. Everything else is 3D printed using roughly 750 grams of filament.
Watch this short clip of how it works! The entire design includes of 69 individual parts (28 STL files). It sounds like a ton but most of them are small easy prints. I printed a complete set of parts in about four days. Depending on how good your printer is it may take some hours to clean up the parts and assemble it. This is a large model, it’s almost a foot tall. Make sure your printer is large enough to print all the parts as they cannot be scaled down! (I used a battery clip I had laying around so you may need to cut and solder the wires) You will also need some super glue.
Printer Settings: Rafts: No
Resolution: All parts were printed at 0.2 mm except for the body and head pieces which were 0.3 mm.
Infill: I used 10% for everything
Notes: Printed in PLA using the Cura slicer. Printer Requirements: – Minimum vertical ability: 115 mm – Minimum Y axis ability: 178 mm – Minimum X axis ability: 110 mm – The file body_ATAT.stl is the ‘largest’ part. It is 205 mm long and 110 mm wide. If your printer cannot manage a part 205 mm long, I have included a version of the file that is separated into two pieces (body_ATAT_front.stl, body_ATAT_back.stl). Each one is notched so that the pieces can be glued together. I have not printed either of these as my printer can handle the one piece version. However, I am confident that they will fit together if printed correctly. Please let me know if you have any issues with this. The following parts need support structure: – Body_ATAT – Foot – Frame_Left – Frame_RIght – GearSet_BL – GearSet_BR – GearSet_FL – GearSet_FR – Head – LiftGear_FLBR – LiftGear_FRBL I generated a brim for the parts where gear teeth were touching the build plate to minimize deformations in the teeth at the build plate. This requires post printing work to file in between the teeth which may be necessary anyway. Post Printing: – I designed the gear tooth profile to be 3d printing friendly, but you likely will still need to floss the teeth with a file to get them to mesh well. – Many of the parts required a decent amount of clean up work (especially the gears) and you can make good use of files, sandpaper, wood chisels, and super glue. Some of the joints may be a really tight fit and don’t need to be glued depending on your printer. – There are two LiftGear parts that look similar but are mirrored. It’s important to print two of each. The same goes for the two LegPivot parts. – Once completed this model will only walk well on smooth surfaces. (I’m kind of surprised it walks at all)